Visiting the Fairytale World of the famous storyteller's Native Land in Scandinavia

Reflected back at me, I appear to be wearing enormous golden pantaloons, visible exclusively in my view. Kids relax in a stone basin imitating mermaids, and nearby resides a talking pea in a exhibition box, beside a towering stack of bedding. It represents the domain of Hans Christian Andersen (1805-1875), one of the 19th century’s widely adored authors. I find myself in the city of Odense, located on Fyn in the southern part of the Danish kingdom, to discover the author's timeless impact in his birthplace 150 years after his death, and to discover a few fairytales of my own.

The Museum: H.C. Andersen's House

HC Andersens Hus is the local cultural center dedicated to the writer, incorporating his original residence. A curator explains that in previous versions of the museum there was minimal emphasis on the author's tales. Andersen's biography was explored, but Thumbelina were nowhere to be found. For visitors who come to Odense looking for storytelling magic, it was a little lacking.

The redevelopment of downtown Odense, diverting a main thoroughfare, provided the opportunity to reimagine how the renowned native could be commemorated. A major architecture competition granted Japanese firm Kengo Kuma and Associates the project, with the museum's fresh perspective at the core of the structure. The unique wooden museum with connected spiralling spaces launched to much acclaim in 2021. “We have attempted to create a space where we avoid discussing the author, but we communicate similarly to Andersen: with humour, irony and perspective,” notes the representative. The outdoor spaces follow this philosophy: “This is a landscape for strollers and for colossal creatures, it's created to make you feel small,” he says, a challenge realized by thoughtful gardening, experimenting with elevation, scale and multiple meandering routes in a deceptively small space.

The Author's Influence

He authored two and a half autobiographies and frequently changed his story. HC Andersens Hus adopts this philosophy fully; often the opinions of his companions or fragments of written messages are displayed to gently question the his narrative of events. “The author is the guide, but he’s not reliable,” explains the expert. The outcome is a compelling whirlwind tour of the author's biography and work, thinking patterns and best-loved tales. It’s stimulating and whimsical, for grown-ups and children, with a bonus basement make-believe land, Ville Vau, for the youngest visitors.

Exploring Odense

In the physical town, the small city of the municipality is delightful, with stone-paved roads and traditional Danish homes finished in bright colours. The Andersen legacy is ubiquitous: the road indicators show the writer with his iconic top hat, metal shoe prints provide a complimentary Andersen walking tour, and there’s a outdoor exhibition too. Each summer this dedication reaches its height with the annual Andersen celebration, which marks the author’s legacy through creativity, dance, theatre and melodies.

During my visit, the seven-day celebration had 500 shows, many were complimentary. During my time in the city, I meet artistic acrobats, spooky creatures and an Andersen lookalike telling stories. I experience empowering poetry and see an remarkable nocturnal display with graceful performers coming down from the city building and suspended from a construction equipment. Upcoming events this year are talks, creative sessions for all ages and, broadening the storytelling legacy past the author, the city’s regular Magic Days festival.

Each wonderful enchanted locations need a palace, and Fyn boasts numerous historic homes and estates around the area

Biking Adventures

Similar to other Danish regions, cycles are the ideal method to get about in the city and a “bike path” meanders through the city centre. Departing from my accommodation, I cycle to the public waterside bathing area, then out of town for a circuit around Stige Ø, a tiny landmass connected by causeway to the larger island. Town dwellers have outdoor meals here after work, or appreciate a tranquil moment fishing, paddleboarding or swimming.

In town, I eat at the themed restaurant, where the menu is inspired by the writer's motifs and stories. The literary work the patriotic piece is highlighted during my meal, and proprietor the host recites passages, translated into English, as he serves every dish. It’s an experience frequent in my time in Odense, the local residents enjoy storytelling and it seems that narrating is constantly offered here.

Castle Explorations

All good fairytale destinations need a palace, and Fyn contains 123 castles and estates around the area. Going on excursions from town, I tour Egeskov Castle, Europe’s finely maintained moated palace. Despite parts are open to visitors, this historic site is also the private residence of the aristocratic owners and his wife, the princess. I ponder if she can feel a tiny vegetable through a pile of {mattresses